Bamako - “West Africa's lost treasure,” is how the overland company, Dragoman, describes Mali.
For World Music aficionados, it is one of the richest countries in the world, with creativity flowing as powerfully as the Niger River.
In normal circumstances, thousands of British travellers would now be flying south to engage with Mali's imperial history, wild terrain and diverse wildlife - many of them heading for Timbuktu, an ancient seat of learning.
But these are not normal times, and the northern border with Algeria has proved a porous route for warriors and weapons.
The latest Lonely Planet guide to West Africa devotes just four pages to a country five times bigger than Britain, saying: “Its landscapes, monuments, mosques and music bars are off-limits.”
Even before last week’s bloody events in the capital, Bamako, Mali was on the Foreign Office danger list. “Maintain several days' stock of food and water in case disturbances take place,” it says.
“There is a high threat from terrorism, including kidnap.” The north of Mali receives the most stringent FCO warning: “Avoid all travel,” because of a wave of jihadist terrorism.
So Mali's treasures will stay hidden, for now. But as the new popularity of once war-torn Nicaragua and Vietnam shows, tourism can play an important part in a nation's recovery.
The Independent